HIROSHIMA
Day 1
Arrival into Hiroshima
Hiroshima-bound: taking off from Hong Kong.
If you find yourself disembarking from a plane in Hiroshima, as I do now, being the last one out is not a good idea at all! It takes me around two hours to get out of the airport! First off, I queue to have my finger-prints scanned from a cool machine which looks like it’s taken straight from a 1980's ‘Doctor Who’ film-set. It’s a bulky piece of steel, with lots of big brightly lit buttons, and is operated by a ‘specialist’, who then directs me to rejoin the queue.
This eventually brings me to the passport control and immigration counter, where I am subjected to many questions; such as “where will you stay” and “what's the phone number of the hotel” – these details I am unable to provide as I have no WIFI and no data! As an alternative I am therefore asked for proof of my return flight, again which I am unable to provide for the exact same reasons! His English isn’t great (needless to say 99.99% better than my Japanese) and so presumably he’s equally keen to get on with it, because rather than get into a longer and more difficult conversation (in front of one of his seniors), he abruptly does a u-turn and tells me “ok, ok you can go through”, and that’s that!
I now pick up my bag, and on the way to the exit, I am pulled to the side by the security police – lots of people are being stopped so I’m not feeling singled-out or too phased, and anyway I’ve nothing to worry about as I’m 90% sure I left those codeine tablets behind in the UK – for this precise reason! Did you know Japan is very strict about prescription-drugs – the likes of codeine can be treated quite harshly, even if they are legitimately prescribed. Luckily I came across this bit of info prior to leaving for Hong Kong a few weeks back (Japan is part of a wider trip and so today I have come directly from Hong Kong). I vividly recall deciding to remove the pills, and then at that very moment getting distracted by something else; and I can’t quite retrieve the internal footage conclusively proving to myself they’re no longer in my bag! This is why there’s that 10% doubt lurking in the background of my mind. This guy speaks good English and searches my rucksack extremely thoroughly: and since I’d been in a last minute frantic scramble when packing back in Hong Kong, I had had (rather haphazardly) to place all sorts of things all throughout my rucksack. As such random things are scattered all over the place!
First of all he asks where I’ve come from, and how long I will be staying in Japan; he asks what I will be doing in Hiroshima (to which I reply visiting the Atomic Dome, the Peace Memorial and Miyajima Island etc.); he also asks what I’d been doing in Vietnam (having noticed the recent stamp in my passport). My answer seems fairly satisfactory because he then continues to go through each item of my backpack, one by one: he comes across an organiser pouch with zipped pockets in which there’s a small wallet with zips, all of which he inspects thoroughly – he opens every nook and cranny but somehow overlooks the compartment containing all my cash – anyway I think I’m just under the 1 million Yen declaration limit so I would have been fine. He then finds another organiser, with a randomly out of place toothbrush-head, and tooth-pick, wrapped in a piece of scrumpled up paper. He looks perplexed, so I shrug my shoulders saying “it’s to clean my teeth”; then he pulls out a sports t-shirt, still sweaty from hiking (we went hiking the previous day, on Dragon’s Back in HK), as well as some rather odorous damp socks (which I had tried hand-washing the previous night but which hadn’t fully dried by the time I'd come to pack!); now onto one of my a wash-bags (my heart rate increases slightly here, as I know that if the codeine is anywhere it’s either in this wash-bag or the one inside my big suitcase, which he’s yet to get to); he pulls out my roll-on deodorant – he seemingly asks what it is, and as I start to explain and gesticulate it’s for the armpits, it transpires he’s actually referring to the fact it is in Vietnamese and bizarrely has a Manchester United sticker on it (which luckily distracts him and he starts talking about football and I’m getting pretty tired now, and perhaps a tiny bit worried about those damn pills!); he then fumbles through the rest of the wash-bag, thankfully determining there’s nothing of interest!!; lastly, he comes across all my massage-balls and massage-roller, again they’re met with a perplexed and somewhat bemused look. Hoping it is over rather than now doing the same with my main suitcase (God forbid!), I try looking as chilled as possible….he glances up at me and I smile as coolly as possible, he then says “ok, you’re good, enjoy!” and waves me through….phew!!!
This airport is very small and basically has nothing at all! I take the ‘Limousine Service’ straight into Hiroshima Central Station – easy and comfortable. Along the way I gaze out the window at all the green vegetation and dense forest.
Once I arrive at Hiroshima Station I seek out the information centre! Getting the ICOCA card is fun (!?), the guy is very helpful and spends a long time explaining and uses his translator to do so; eventually I get the card and top it up with 4,500 Yen. I feel pleased with this little achievement. He also directs me to where I might find a sim-card and also where to take the tram to my hostel. Well, it all sounds very easy.
Half an hour later, and 8 helpful people later, I find the tram stop and the correct tram number. Apparently not so easy! I use the ICOCA card, and when I get off (some 8 mins later), I feel proud that I …. “hey you you!!!” a loud voice shouts at me interrupting my thought-chain: the train driver is out on the platform apparently shouting at me?!! But what have I done!!? or perhaps it’s not me? The tram is ram-packed and everyone including the grumpy looking French tourists are all staring in my direction, in all likelihood at me and possibly all with the same question in mind! Actually, he seems quite irate, and when he rushes over to me, for a split second I’m actually slightly worried (!); he says “pay pay, must pay!”. I say, “but I did?!?”, “no no….” I think, 'shit he’s quite angry'…I fumble with my wallet and take out my ICOCA card and motion that I’ve tapped in and paid …. “NO NO” he quips, snatching my card out of my hand, to march it to the front of the tram – 'what the hell is going on', I think, 'everything had been going so well!' I dutifully follow him… he repeats “entry exit, entry exit” and the same in Japanese (sounds similar!). And he taps it for me and hands it straight back… then gets back into his driver’s seat and I again disembark the tram. Ok, I’m somewhat relieved it’s not that serious and walk back past the
tram and all her passengers, my tail somewhat between my legs and certainly slightly less proud than I had been feeling just moments earlier, and definitely slightly confused! I stop outside the back door where all the French tourists are possibly equally bemused, and I look at them to say “I don’t get it, I paid??” they don’t really have anything to say, merely giving me blank looks as the doors shut and I walk off ("typical French", the person next to me jokes!). Next time I’m on the tram I ask the conductor what I need to tap? he points at two separate machines (one for 'in’ one for ‘out’, presumably), and I sort of get it now, and I don’t mess up anymore!!
In search of my accommodation for the night
Finding the hostel takes a further hour or so, as I’m getting lost in this massive maze of eateries and bars, I seem to have somehow landed directly in the middle of the entertainment district of Hiroshima (I only find this out over the course of the ensuing days).
Hiroshima entertainment, nightlife (& red-light) district - Nagarekawa
And after about 8 more interactions… eventually a really nice guy who speaks good English walks me almost all the way to the front door of my hostel! I’m relieved as it’s now been quite a long journey from HK.
The hostel is very very basic. There’s no space to put my big bag so the kind man at reception (he’s probably the owner who seems to be the chef at the restaurant below) allows me to leave it locked in the office whilst I go out to find food. He says I can press the bell later, he’ll be around till late! I go out in search of food. I am apparently in the heart of the nightlife district once again, and as it happens, Saturday night is heating up – it is rammed
with drunken restaurant goers and beer/sake drinking party animals!
I am turned away from 3 restaurants and I feel a bit unwelcome and slightly wounded to be honest. Am I doing something wrong? Don’t they like the look of me? Granted, the first place is full-up, but the guy just puts his arms up in a big cross shape, and everyone turns to look at me and so I walk out in embarrassment. At the second restaurant, the girl seems too guilty to explicitly tell me to leave, but there is clearly no space at all, and she can’t speak English anyway… so after standing there for a few awkward minutes, hoping that a space would spontaneously show itself, I turn around and just leave…
I am feeling pretty dejected now, hungry and disheartened… 'maybe they just don’t like me here?!' I can be sensitive at times! And at the next place, although there seems to be a couple free spaces, he says "it is all reserved"… Instinctively I feel dejected, but if they're reserved then they're reserved! Oh boy.
Perhaps to restore my ego, perhaps by chance, I then actually turn down several places myself (having gone inside I then walk out as I don't like the look of them or can't understand what's on the menu! see my piece on Osaka about 'Food Galore, (but what is it?!)'). This somewhat amusingly does make me feel a bit better! I eventually find a perfect match (!) and settle down for some incredibly good sushi… hand-cut-to-order and of the taste of fresh sushi perfection!
After this, feeling replenished and energised, I venture further afield to try to get a sim-card and an adaptor plug. I come across a massive supermarket, filled with noise and hundreds of late-night-shoppers!? It looks like the ground-floor is for food shopping and after having been walking about for the last half an hour (having asked about 20 people, with no luck), I rather abruptly and desperately stop a nice-looking man who’s apparently food-shopping with his wife (it’s around 11:30pm by now, so they do it late over here!). He then says “wait, I show” … and instructs his wife to presumably continue shopping whilst he helps me out – she doesn’t look overly impressed about this but I gladly take up his offer – and well I doubt I have much of a choice because before I know it he’s walking off eagerly ushering me to follow him….
We take the escalator to the 3rd floor and after 10 mins of looking around, he helps me pick the correct adaptor! I am very thankful and we part ways.
Outside, some 20 mins later he and his wife happen to be there, he notices me and rushes over pointing at the small plastic bag I’m now holding, urging me to show him whether I got the right one! so I get out the charger and say thank you so much – “it’s right its right” I repeat because he's looking hesitant! he looks at it closely and he says “are you sure?” I think I’d better be sure otherwise he’ll take me right back in there and his wife will want to throttle me and all I want to do right now is to get into bed and get to sleep! Anyway, I am sure it is right! “yes, it’s right, it’s definitely right! thank you so much for your help!!!” He looks pleased and we all smile and they walk off as I cross the road and eventually find my way back to the hostel!
Sleep tonight is hard to come by – snoring takes over the room by one particular fellow, and some others decide to join him in unison – most likely me included! Well what can I do…this is a youth-hostel after all!
Day 2
What a superb new base!
Looking over Hiroshima from from the hotel lobby
Eventually I find the next hotel. Compared with the hostel it is luxury. Actually, it is pretty lovely in its own right. The hotel is brand-new, perhaps less than a year old! And it is absolutely and utterly spotless. This hotel would put 5-star hotels to shame, and yet it’s a modest 3-star hotel! The receptionists are extremely friendly and their English is not bad at all. They explain that my room is not ready and that I can leave my bags here if I wish to go out and come back later? They also explain that the bathes and sauna (which are located on the rooftop), are open from 2pm to 11am the next day. Oh wow! In this case, I am looking forward to using these later - and what a massive treat after last night’s pretty dreary experience.
The hotel is situated in the Naka Ward of Hiroshima, effectively on a parcel of land encapsulated by Hiroshima Bay and both the Motoyasu river and the Kyobashi river, and about a 15 min walk to the site of the Atomic Bomb Dome, which is part of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park – the atomic bombing of Hiroshima on 6 August 1945 being the reason I’m here today, as I want to pay my respects to all those who were killed as a result of this dreadful event.
So, I get some info and venture out to get a coffee, the all elusive sim-card, lunch, and to then visit the A-Bomb Memorial site.
The girl who helps me get the sim-card is extremely nice and very helpful. She also uses a translator. We smile a lot and then I walk out having somehow left my phone on the counter – the checkout man runs over to me with such a sense of urgency and hands my phone straight back to me whilst bowing at the same time! I guess this is not astonishingly abnormal at all, and I’m sure this would be the reaction of anyone anywhere in Japan, be it in a shop or in the middle of the street! In some places in Europe (such as England for example), you need to hold on tightly to your phone lest someone tries to snatch it right out of your hands! But of course there are honest people like this everywhere (including England of course!).
Then I walk through small side-streets and stumble upon a lovely little gem of a ramen restaurant where I eat a delicious pork ramen.
A very delicious ramen in the heart of hiroshima
After this I drink another coffee before heading to the A-Bomb Dome.
It's virtually impossible to imagine the horror of the event that occurred that day. I've always wanted to pay my respects as much as I possibly could, so perhaps by visiting the important sites goes some way to doing this. It's hard to believe this building withstood that gigantic blast, which came from some 600 meters directly above, taking with it some 150,000 innocent people's lives. It really is sickening. Many children were also murdered that day, and the Children's Peace Monument was inspired by a victim of the blast. Here now, a group of children are performing some type of ceremony of paying their respects. They are speaking (or praying) in turn, almost shouting, but full of passion and so much energy, and in front of the public they are so confident and full of compassion, it's extraordinary to see and hear – inspiring.
Afterwards, some kids are running up and down and making a racket, my instinct is to say 'shushhh be respectful, keep it down!' (in my head that is) but actually I quickly think, 'it's perfect, this is what peace, amongst other things, means...' It's a terrible shame the kids of that awful day would never experience this kind of freedom and joy. And that goes for all of those people. For what it's worth, I will never condone this atrocity, ever.
On a different and lighter note, Hiroshima is full of very friendly and kind people. It has a lot to offer.
That night I go for the local dish, Okonomiyaki.
I am seated next to a guy from Israel, at the table right in front of the chef. We get talking and the chef cooks my Okonomiyaki - and once ready slides it over in front of me to devour! It’s massive and equally tasty. This guy and I then go for a drink afterwards. He's good company and we speak about war (and peace), about Israel, travel in Japan, films and music.
Back at the hotel, I get undressed to put my kimono on, and naturally head to the rooftop-spa. This is really nice. I have it to myself and take a hot bath on the roof overlooking the city. Very zen. And then a sauna and cold bath. I sleep well indeed.
Mobilized Memorial Tower, Hiroshima
Purpose of erection:
During the Second World War, in order to make up for the labor shortages, to comfort the spirits of about 10,000 students, including those who were mobilized in labor service and in battle, and the victims of the atomic bomb.
Day 3
Miyajima island, by train and by boat
I jump out of bed, excited for the day ahead and go up to the 10th floor to have breakfast. The breakfast is fine, it’s all nicely presented and fresh. It’s a shame the scrambled eggs are cold and the bread is full of sugar – but I mustn’t forget it’s actually not a 5-star hotel!! The views from here are beautiful. The weather's not great today, but yesterday the floor-to-ceiling windows provided for fantastic panoramic views of Hiroshima: it's quite stunning, because you are presented with the city, then the lush green backdrop of hills and surrounding low-lying mountains, which in turn are set against the blue skies.
Anyway, today I set off to Miyajima island, by train and by boat.
‘Itsukushima’, also known as Miyajima, is a small island in Hiroshima Bay, western Japan. It is known for its forests and ancient temples. Just offshore, the giant orange Great Torii gate is partially submerged at high tide. It marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine, which was first built in the 12th century.
At Miyajimaguchi Station I grab a nice coffee and the chap is friendly, and I show him where I live in the UK. From here to the ferry-pier it’s just a short walk and I take the underpass.
As I'm emerging from the tunnel, walking up the steps I see that it’s literally pouring
down – it’s raining cats and dogs! And to my surprise, a very sweet looking girl ushers me under her umbrella! I look at her with a surprised smile and scurry on over! She smiles and says come it’s so wet out here! I thank her and we naturally start to chat: she is a university student, visiting for a week or so from Thailand! We chat on the ferry and take photos for one another.
We then spend some time exploring the first parts of the island and accompanying shrines. The Itsukushima shrine and its magnificent Great Torii are unique for being built over water, and during high tide they seem to float in the sea. The shrine complex consists of multiple buildings, including a prayer hall, a main hall and a theatre stage, which are connected by boardwalks and supported by pillars above the sea.
The shrine is beautifully framed by the mountains in the background, and the vermilion colour of the shrine and of the Torii gate is considered to keep evil spirits away. The gate is impressive to see, and even without sunshine the colour is magnificent. The mist is rolling through the green hills and there is a beautiful five-storey pagoda (said to have been built in 1407) and many eateries in the small village below.
I accompany her to get an ice-cream, and then we say our goodbyes including words of gratitude for having met (I invariably convey this when saying goodbye to a stranger whose company I have enjoyed!).
I then get the ropeway up to Mt Misen, which is covered with primeval forests. It’s a bit of a miserable day, the rain is persistent, but the scenery is still able to reveal a lot of its natural beauty. The mountain has been considered sacred and an object of worship since ancient times. Near the summit are temples relating to Kobo Daish, a great
Buddhist priest. I am walking towards the summit when I encounter a path signposted all the way down to the bottom. Because of the deteriorating weather I decide to take this route, but in hindsight I ought to have still gone to the top. Never mind! On the way down, I don’t see a single person, I am protected by the umbrella I borrowed earlier, as well as by the surrounding forest, and I come across a few deer and lots of little frogs hopping about as I tread the ground. It is peaceful, the only sounds are those of the animals, the rain and the trees. I walk down, to Daisho-in, then continue down to Itsukushima-jinja.
At the bottom, I pay my respects to some of the smaller Shinto shrines, and also walk around the Torri gate which is now completely out of the water (the tide is out but will be back in shortly!). It is really big, impressive and stunning.
On my way back, I take the wrong tram from Hiroshima Station and have to then turn all the way back, I feel suitably exhausted, but equally content with the day’s adventures. So, it is sweet to actually get back to this nice hotel. For dinner, I simply go downstairs because adjacent to the hotel is a very good Italian restaurant. They are all very friendly. And I sit and enjoy a juicy pizza as well as some nice pasta! What am I doing eating pizza in Japan!?!
I go back to my room feeling even more satisfied! A bit later on, I enjoy another hot bath on the rooftop of the hotel. I keep thinking this hotel is especially good value considering it only costs £185 for the 3 nights! The baths are hot, as hot as you’d run a bath at home, so a lot hotter than your average Jacuzzi (but without bubbles) – a different concept really. Sitting here, under the moonlit-sky on this hotel rooftop is indeed a zen experience. Again I sleep very well as soon as my head touches the pillow.
I still haven’t used the toilets to their full capabilities, in fact the only function I use is the heated seat (and this actually just switches itself on as soon as your bum sits on it! Nice!), and the flush of course! Problem is, it’s often hard finding the flush button which is well hidden amongst all the other buttons, especially if it’s all in Japanese and even more so if no accompanying flush icon! I won’t bother with the spray and other functions as I wonder how clean this actually is?! I’m later told by many experienced users that they love it!
I then head to the castle, which is probably nicer to look at from the outside, but I pay to go inside anyway – the girl sitting on the bench next to me is also debating whether to go in. We both agree that the fact that we know it’s a reconstruction dramatically lessens our interest!
Afterwards, I visit the A-Bomb site again. I sit on a bench next to two Indonesian ladies who start talking to me. They are fun and seem to like to giggle, but it occurs to me that this is not the place to be giggling, so I decide to part company as nice as they are. I find a quieter spot to sit and to reflect.
On my way back to the hotel (note I have walked everywhere today), I stumble across one of many arcade centres, and although my feet are aching from the full day of walking, I decide to pop in to check it out. I am immediately directed to an available slot-machine, or whatever it is??! Walking in here, I’m first hit by the massive noise levels, then the flashing lights, then the smell of smoke and then the fact that everyone looks totally possessed!! I put a 1,000 Yen note into the thirsty mouth of the machine, thinking it will simply credit me, but to my surprise, hundreds of coins are machine-gunned out – literally 10 per second spew out, gushing straight onto the floor! the people next to me don’t take any notice (they’re possessed!) but the guy who had ushered me in runs over to push the nozzle to face into the tray! ok I get it, that’s what you’re supposed to do then! Sigh, I now must have some 1000 coins!?? Oh dear! I play
Day 4
Final day in Hiroshima: Shukkei-en and revisit of A-Bomb Dome
for a bit but soon get bored and manage to recoup 600 of my 1000 investment. I’m tired and wanna get back now!
Tonight, dinner is slightly disastrous, as I end up in another Okonomiyaki joint, this time the menu seems to have lots of seafood as well as offal in the mix, so I gladly opt for the vegan one. It turns out to be a puny portion, and I scoff it down within 5 mins... I end up needing to fill up on a pretty yucky sandwich from 7/11…
Naturally, hotel plus sauna, then bed!
I think to myself, it’s a pity because I don’t get to see the Old Bank of Japan which is just one of 2 (or 3?) buildings that survived the blast - and now houses small collections of photos and items that also survived the blast. Next time, because I will return one day!
Tomorrow, off to Onomichi for my cycle ride I go! You can read all about it here.